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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.